Provence 2011 - Journal

The after-effects of our transatlantic voyage are overcome and the sun-drenched light of Provence that we see in Cezanne’s paintings has cleared the cobwebs in our minds, spun by fatigue, discomfort and anxiousness. Aix-en-Provence, the former capital city of Provence, is working its charms on our souls.
Our first day is spent exploring the old parts of this ancient city which traces its roots back to the Roman era. The city is best explored on foot, strolling in the maze of its narrow streets that tell of their medieval past. History is ever present and the churches, aristocratic residences, statues and plaques commemorating its famous citizens invite the visitor to reflect on past centuries and events. But we are easily distracted from historic ruminations and quickly brought back to the here and now thanks to a multitude of attractions that appeal to our senses: the colorful and bustling markets, displaying fresh fruit, vegetables and herbs, stands with fish and cheeses, and artisan wares so characteristic of Provence: colorful table linens and pottery, aromatic soaps and perfumes of lavender, rosemary, fig blossoms and olive. Cafés and restaurants shaded by chestnut trees, on plazas and along pedestrian streets invite us to rest and linger and take in the particular atmosphere of the Midi – the South of France; the sun, ever-present, lights up the narrow streets between the ochre-stained houses topped by terra cotta tiled roofs and adorned by flowering balconies, with an azure sky overhead. This is a place where another rhythm takes over and teaches us to linger, to enjoy and savor the moment.

Eva

Pertuis and Val Joanis – a feast for the senses

We took a half hour journey by local bus to Pertuis, a village which shows the many bright colors of Provence with pots of scarlet geraniums on the balconies and houses painted every shade from dark red to bright orange. Along the main avenue multicoloured flowers were just being planted by city workers to add to the visual feast. We walked to the town square where Eva, our knowledgeable guide and organizer, visited the Office de Tourisme. Eva had made reservations for our noon meal at a restaurant well known for its Provençale cuisine and for using the produits du terroir (fresh local ingredients). We arrived at the restaurant and were ushered into a small room with a table set for the eight of us. The room could have been a still-life painting, with plates of burnt orange and cobalt blue (the preferred colors in Van Gogh’s art, also found in Provençal table cloths). The napkins were folded in the shape of a shirt with a collar which inspired us to practice and perfect the art of folding napkins in this manner as we were waiting for our first course. The visual beauty was matched by the aromas and the flavors of the meal. First came scallops in a light sauce which had the smell and the taste of the sea. Next came a daube of beef which was amazingly tender, served with a piquante sauce, along with tasty fried potatoes à la coins de rue (cut in cubes, resembling a straight sided street corner). Desert was baba au rhum.
Eva had arranged for a van to transport us to Val Joanis – a vineyard and winery with an extensive 18^th century style French garden. In the past, Val Joanis was a mas, an estate hidden away in the countryside which served well-to-do citizens of Provence as a retreat. During the times of the plague they were able to seek refuge there for months at a time. Because they had no contact with other people, they were able to avoid contracting the dreaded infectious disease which killed a large portion of Europe’s population in centuries past.
The mas was self sufficient and had its own food source – an extensive kitchen garden, poultry and other farm animals, and, of course, a vineyard. Herbs are still cultivated in the garden today.
The garden of Val Joanis is a feast both for the eyes and the nose. It is arranged in rectangles and circles with every imaginable colour if flowers and trees. The scent of roses, jasmine and herbs lingered in the warm air.
We then enjoyed the experience of a formal wine tasting or dégustation. The grapes, Syrah and Grenache, were grown in the vineyards of Val Joanis and the wine was produced on site as well; it therefore gets the label of distinction AOC (appellation d’origine contrôlée). Provence is famous for its rosé wines. With pointers from the vineyard hosts, we concentrated on the nose (the aroma) of the wine and on the subtleties of flavor by sampling a white, a < i>rosé and a red wine.
After returning to Aix, we finished our day in the pleasant courtyard of our hotel, L’Atrium. We all brought our contribution to the picnic. The ingredients were bought at the Monoprix (a French supermarket) or from one of the many specialty shops selling fruit, vegetables, bread and pastries.
All our senses were stimulated during our excursion into the Provence countryside – sights and smells everywhere, tastes at our meals and wine tasting. Our hearing pleasures included chiming church bells, bird calls and the rapid chatter of French all around us. Touch came into play when checking the cottons and linens of tableware and the finer fabrics as we studied French fashion.

Eleanor

We start our day with our usual routine -breakfast, laughter and chit chat - and we are ready to explore some of the surrounding areas, today by guided excursion in a minivan. As we leave the charming city of Aix-en-Provence, the countryside is full of new things to see: vineyards, olive groves, agriculture and stone homes with terra cotta rooftops nestled in the greenery of the area. It is so inviting after our long winter to see the beauty of nature under a blue sky.
First stop is at the edge of the Camargue. A natural park, this wetland is protected and home of the black bulls, white horses, flamingos and many other species. Also we find rice fields cultivated that produce a distinct flavour because of the soil and area conditions. Our destination is Arles, where visit we visit our first Van Gogh site, the draw bridge in one of his famous paintings. We make our way into the inner city of Arles with stone walls still surrounding the town of 2000 years before when the Romans needed a place to settle their army. This location was chosen for ease of communication, travel and safety, as the Rhone River provided access to the Mediterranean and to the northern parts of France and into Germany. We enter the Roman arena where children are being given instruction of sword and shield skills to give them a taste of the fights that would have taken place in the Roman era, including challenges between gladiators, and prisoners facing off with wild beasts. Today they still hold bull fights in the arena and also follow the tradition of the bull running in the streets and crowds with so many spectators, we are told, that Wimbledon pales in comparison. We stroll through the town past an impressive Roman Amphitheatre and other structures of historic interest including more Van Gogh sites such as the hospital where Van Gogh spent time healing and painting. Throughout the town, we stand in various more spots that appear in some of his most recognized masterpieces: the Café at night, the spot on the banks of the Rhone river from where we see the scene of Starry, starry night and his house in Arles, a stone throw away from there. We learn that most any place is a worthy subject for an artist like Van Gogh whose genius and art transforms everyday motifs into masterpieces.
Off we go to Les Baux de Provence, a medieval village built into the rock overlooking the Camargue. We spend some time taking in the history, scenery and of course a culinary experience leaving all of us very satisfied. We continue our afternoon in the Alpilles countryside, visiting the Roman remains of Glanum, just a short walk away from the psychiatric hospicel where Van Gogh had stays when haunted by his demons.
The last stop on our day-long excursion is St Remy de Provence a picturesque place with the all the sites that make up a French countryside village: bakery shop, cafés, boutiques with all kinds of treasures, a church and a carousel. The day has been filled with knowledge, sights, sounds and memories. Everywhere there is a picture!
I have had the pleasure of being on other trips with Eva and have many wonderful pictures, treasures and memories. I would not have experienced what I have without her zest to share her time, knowledge and passions with all of us. I have had the pleasure of getting to know many wonderful people and finding kindred spirits that will always be special to me. Eva, thank you! I look forward to more adventures.
Cheryl

Aix-en-Provence-where men look very classy and handsome with a pink sweater tossed around their shoulders and the women dress with such style - there's no need for a "What Not to Wear" TV program.
We visited a huge Saturday market that needed a whole day to explore for treasures but alas, no time. Did meet a stall keeper who knew Montreal and Winnipeg.
Menu for lunch sounded enticing and goat cheese salad is a treat.
Off on foot--eight women strung single file along the sidewalk like Canadian pearls trying not to lose sight of one another.
Cars with names we don't recognize and those we do understand, we can't afford.
Went searching for Cezanne at his atelier and stood in awe in his light filled studio. There were his exact paint pots, brushes, papers as if he had just momentarily stepped away. Another brilliant artist with a troubled life. "I will win over Paris with an apple," said he.
Left his studio and were nearly trampled by 62 German tourists descending from their bus parked in the centre of the road much to the chagrin of the backed-up, horn honking motorists.
Hop on, hop off buses and we are at Cezanne's family home, La Maison du Jas de Bouffan. We were all in awe that we were actually looking at the exact scene that he painted. Makes one appreciate the art even more.
Then off to Les Deux Garcons for a cold drink all the while
wondering if the delightful sidewalk café really is supported by the Mafia as Rick Steeves says.
Exhilarated, exhausted, and enlightened--that was today.

Doreen

The word of the day was Insha’Allah which means God willing. And so we started this very exciting day with high hopes.
We travelled to Marseille by bus early in the morning. Marseille is a port city in the South of France, a very large port city with much history, so we discovered. Marseille was originally settled by the Greeks and then the Romans. Today it has a large multicultural population, which adds to the interest and complexity of the city. We found out that the shops are closed on Sunday, a nice change from the busy market day we experienced in Aix-en-Provence the day before. We had lunch in the “Centre de la Vieille Charité” atop the Panier, the old part of town on one of the hills dipping down to the sea. This well restored hospice was built from 1671 to 1749. The building was created originally to shelter the deprived. The church and surrounding architecture is amazing.
In the afternoon we travelled on the Mediterranean (a first time for a few of us, yeah!) to the island of the Château d’If. The popular French writer Alexandre Dumas gave this fortress life by imprisoning his hero here, the Count of Monte Cristo. Built in 1524-1528, it was designed to protect the port of Marseille and then became a prison. The fortress is absolutely impressive in its setting and its dark prison cells speak to our imagination. Awesome is an understatement.
After our amazing outing on the Mediterranean, we tried to catch the bus to take us to the Basilica of Notre Dame de la Garde overlooking the port when we were informed that France was having wild cat strikes for the bus drivers. We proceeded to make alternative plans; a bus strike was not about to deter this group!
Basilique de Notre Dame de la Garde was truly the jewel of the day. This church was first commissioned in the 13^th century, but completed in the 19th. . The multi-coloured marble mosaics and mural paintings add to its glory. The basilica still has its congregation and mass is celebrated regularly.
After a wild ride on the little tourist train down the steep and narrow slopes, we enjoyed a wonderful meal by the sea. It was a full day and we caught the last train back to Aix-en-Provence, hot and tired overall.
Our word of the day had been prophetic: the day was truly blessed by wonderful weather, an experience by the sea that takes your breath away, and historical sites that are awe inspiring, and -last but not least- wonderful company and great food.
The distance we walk every day has been an interest of the group and today we walked 11 km.

Susan McKenzie

Today we happily start off the day with a nice drive to Château Mont-Redon in the Chateauneuf-du-Pape region by Avignon where we embark on a wine tasting adventure. It’s never too early in the day to drink wine; it's five o'clock somewhere, right? On the way to the Château, the beautiful environment around us is full of lush trees, rolling hills, and blossoming flowers. We stop in front of a never ending vineyard where we learn about how the farmers do not use irrigation for growing the grapes, but rely on natural weather. The grapes are manually harvested in August and then given to the wine makers to be processed. We see a mountain called Ventoux where the town of Montmirail is located which is known for its famous lace. We finally arrive at the winery where we are welcomed with the smell of rosemary and lavender. We learn about the wine's history and how it is made and stored in the cellars. Our tour guide, Bogdane taught us how to properly taste our wine by smelling it, swirling the glass, putting it to the light, and finally tasting it. "You are supposed to blow air in your mouth at the same time, much like you are chewing the wine." Eva took this to heart and literally 'chewed the wine' which caused a humorous coughing fit. The wines we tasted included a 2009 blanc, a 2007 red and an older and more expensive 2001 red. The atmosphere was filled with talk about cuisine and dining, and the wine was much enjoyed. After our wine adventure, we headed off to Avignon for lunch where we ate at Le Lutrin with the Palace of the Popes as a backdrop. The food was delicious, and the dessert was even better. After a walk around the impressive Palais des Papes, the close by Pont du Gard was our next stop; the beautiful Roman aqueduct left us speechless by its size, beauty and history. We took a stroll along the trails which led us to an opening to the river where we dipped our feet into the cool water. There is nothing like spending a day with seven other women, and the silent car ride back meant that the full packed day was enjoyed immensely. 

Christina

The second part of our trip took us to Nice on the French Riviera or “ Côte d’Azur” – another placefilled with treasures to be discovered by our eager group. Our morning started off by a beautiful stroll through Place Masséna, a beautiful square magically guarded by seven statues floating high that glow at night.  We crossed through the Jardin Albert 1er to get to the Promenade des Anglais, the spectacular coastal promenade, on one side the beautiful seafront and the deep blue water and on the other side a string of rich belle époque villas, casinos and hotels.  Armed with our French Riviera pass, we took the practical hop-on hop-off double decker to start opn opur discovery of Nice.   Our first stop was the old port where «le vieux grillé» café offered delicious crêpes au citron and aromatic café crème.  After a lovely chat with the owner and his friend we climbed back on the bus and from there we travelled along the beautiful Baie des Anges coastline.  We learned that Nice was the hub of British people in the 19th century and a most desired destination due to its warm climate; even queen Victoria stayed in Nice in the hotel Regina. This hotel is built in the most prestigious area of the city, the Cimiez Quarter. Our second stop was the «Musée Matisse”. The poppy red villa is a national museum dedicated to the work of French painter Henri Matisse. It is host to one of the world's largest collections of his works, and shows his artistic beginnings through his evolution up to his last works. This 17th century villa, located in the hills of Cimiez, opened in 1963 as a museum.  It was once Matisse’s residence up to his death in 1954 and displays not only a wealth of his paintings, but also books and personal furniture of the master.  Next on the tour was the Marc Chagall Museum which showcases the biblical interpretations of the French-Russian painter on vast, colorful canvases that are striking by the bold colors and fanciful depictions. After taking in all this art we had a pause in the little café in the gardens.  We were refreshed by the panaches and salade niçoise, and enjoyed the playful cat that is at home in the lush garden.  We hopped back on the bus to the old part of town and strolled by the beautiful   place Garibaldi, the Chapelle St Sepulcre and through the picturesque streets and squares, back to the hotel. It was another day, full of impressions - what an adventure.

Lina Torbey

It is Thursday May 26th, 2011 and our day begins early.   It is cool but will soon get much warmer. (35 degrees)   Today we stroll along a pathway along the Nice shoreline and soon discover it is a great way to experience the wonderful sights and sounds that are everywhere.   Around every bend and with each step there is a new picture, much like turning the pages of a travel book.  The streets are dotted with bars, shops, and street cafés.   Like a box of crayons, these cafés are decked out with multi colored umbrellas, tablecloths and napkins.   It's an absolute must to enjoy the hospitality and fabulous French cuisine provided at these charming cafés, the biggest problem is deciding which one to choose.  
 
In the distance, church bells ring, birds sing and somewhere near by a perched pigeon softly calls.."coo-coo" (which we borrow and use as our cue to smile for the camera and to gain each other's attention).  The shore line is dotted with hundreds of the world's biggest sailing ships and on the horizon there is the silhouette of a cruise ship.  North American modesty does not prevail along this rocky beach, as sun worshippers soak up the sun, topless.  Amazing greenery cascades from the massive stone walls including flowering bougainvillea, jasmine, ivy and lemon trees.   The sky is a cloudless blue and as it bends to the horizon to meet the deep azure of the Mediterranean, it is amazing.   I search for the right words to describe all this splendour and beauty but the best I can come up with is, unbelievably beautiful.
 
Our walk continues on a climb to the famed Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild.   This is a perfect dream villa of the Riviera, built in the 1900s and has rose pink stucco walls.  Built by the spirited Beatrice de Rothschild this villa is filled with marble, mosaic floors, fine pottery, furniture, tapestry and priceless art.   It is so lavish it's hard to believe what your eyes are seeing.   The massive garden can only be compared to Versailles with 9 themed gardens including Japanese and Florentine.  But watch your toes as they will start tapping to music as amazing fountains begin to dance to the Strauss waltz and the Can Can.  As you look out over the gardens you see another dramatic view of the Mediterranean.  I can barely believe what I am seeing.   In this world of luxury and beauty I pinch myself.   Am I really here?  Yes, I am, and I want to see more.
 
Joyce Zasadny

Friday, May 27. Ah, Monaco, the place of dreams and movies and the rich and richer--actually, the wealthiest place in all of Europe.  One of the big banks says it so well: "Barclays--Wealth." And it is beautiful with suntanned villas, magenta vines tumbling over the walls, and above all, a  cloudless azure sky.   From a distance we watched part of the world's oldest and most restigious race, The Grand Prix Formula One time trials and marvelled at the cars zipping around hairpin curves sounding like a very rich swarm of bees. Glamor, glitz and Ferraris.  A moment of nostalgia as we visited the cathedral where Grace Kelly married Prince Ranier.  It was a real life fairy tale from 1956 when we all believed in princes and castles and happy ever after.  We paid our respects at her resting place where each day there are fresh flowers. The guards still protect the front of the beautiful Grimaldi Palace but now, mostly for show.

Crepes in the courtyard and cafe-au-lait--how perfect.  Then a visit to the utterly amazing Cousteau Aquarium  (Musee Oceanographique) with the displays of the most incredible underwater life forms--fish of every stripe and color, eels, octopus, sharks, etc.  Brilliant colors of neon like a child's huge paintbox.  Such infinite beauty and variety that it would turn the sourest skeptic into an instant environmentalist.   Unfortunately, the collection of refuse and pollutants showed an embarrassment of negative riches and our world's cavalier attitude.  Sad.

And a visit to Eze le village--a twisty hilltop medieval village/castle clinging to the side of the hills.  It was full of  age worn stone stairs, wonderful tiny shops, a profusion of flowers and every turn brought new delights.  At the top of the village was a spectacular cactus garden (up more steps) and a breathtaking  view of Monaco and its red tile roofs, pale stucco villas, and yachts that literally take your breath away. 

Monaco  was like a  fairy tale storybook--beautiful, colorful,and glamorous but we only had time for a brief glimpse into this privileged world.  Note to self: must come back.

Doreen and Joyce

Antibes, Picasso Museum and Cannes

Today we travelled along the Mediterranean coast to Antibes and then to Cannes. We spent more than an hour on a hot and crowded bus. People were bringing their bags of groceries home or taking their children and gear for a Saturday at the beach. We actually got off the bus early and went the rest of the way by train. The train ride took only 7 minutes instead of another stretch of more than half an hour by bus.
The walk from the train station took us past the port, a busy spot with many sailboats and some very large yachts. We were thrilled that we could see the snow covered Alps.
We had come to see the Picasso museum which is housed in a medieval fortress. The museum was closed over lunch hour, so we found a popular Falafel restaurant and had delicious and fresh platters of falafel, tabuli, dolmades, baklava and some other Lebanese specialties. The farmers’ market close by was doing a brisk business in locally produced olives, vegetables, flowers, sausages and prepared foods such as tapenade and olive oil.
After a few purchases of locally grown lavender, soaps and dried herbs, we proceeded to the museum which includes mostly pieces created by Picasso during his time in the vicinity of Antibes. His pencil sketches and ceramic plates are of fish, sea urchins, squid and other objects related to the seaside, and he also draws on subjects from his life with Jacqueline as well as from Greek mythology, such as nymphs and centaurs. His 1946 painting “La joie de vivre” put a smile on my face. Two busts of the same woman - his wife at the time - were ultra modern. I would not have felt flattered, if they had been of me, with that exceptionally large and bulgy nose. The two paintings of nudes lying on their sides were also non-traditional in the depiction of their female form. Some elements, most notably the breasts, are extremely prominent while others such as eyes, nose, ears and buttocks, are in non-anatomical positions.
The windows from the gallery rooms frame views of the strikingly blue Mediterranean Sea and sky.
From Antibes we had a short trip on the TGV (train à grande vitesse or very fast train) to Cannes, which is slightly further along the beautiful Côte d’Azur which is well named as the azure coast. Cannes was hectic and we were glad to be only visiting briefly. We saw the site of the Cannes Film Festival which had just finished one week prior. The ships, cars and stores were opulent, the beach beautiful with golden sand. We stopped for an ice cream or drinks at a sidewalk café and took note of the French fashion walking by.
We returned in comfort on the regular TER train and back in Nice, walked past grocers, flower stores and store windows with attractive displays of everything from nuts to shoes. It was Saturday night and the streets were even busier than usual. We had planned a special supper together for our group of 8. This was the final event with all of us, because one of our group was moving on to another adventure, hiking on the Levante coast of Italy.
We found a sidewalk restaurant where they arranged the tables to accommodate us. This was next to a café with an enthusiastic crowd watching the soccer match between Manchester and Barcelona. We joined in the cheers when Barcelona scored. Our dinner was fun with good food and wines, frequent toasts of “a votre santé” or simply “santé” and pleasant, lively company. Some of us went for a seaside walk on the Promenade des Anglais along the Baie des Anges, named in honour of the first enthusiastic tourists – the British of the 19th century, who enjoyed the Côte d’Azur as we do today.